My first visit to Belize was during a shore excursion 15 years ago. I visited the amazing Mayan ruins at Xunantunich, had an authentic Belizean lunch with some of my fellow travelers, and spent time shopping at the Fort Street Tourism Village before reboarding the ship and sailing off to the next port of call. I’d always remembered it as a fantastic day and was excited to go back.
A small Central American English-speaking country that is part of the West Indies, Belize is bordered to the north by Mexico, Guatemala to the west and south, and the Caribbean Sea to the east. It’s still developing and is a young country by nearly any standard. That means fast food restaurants are nowhere to be found and most of the country’s land is untouched. In Belize City, there’s no downtown core or central shopping district; with the exception of the tourism village that is open on cruise ship port days.
The weather is incredible. The people are warm, kind, and friendly, and the exchange rate is strong. One Belizean dollar is worth about 50 cents, so travel budgets stretch further.
My friends and I stayed in Belize City at the Best Western Biltmore Plaza — a place our driver spoke fondly of thanks to its authentic Belizean décor. The hotel is designed around its courtyard pool and rooms are equipped with darkening blinds plus A/C to help beat the tropical heat. It has a restaurant and bar onsite, along with Onyx, a full-service spa, and a café called The Biltmore (try the muffins and the journeycake). The hotel staff is fantastic and can be counted on for directions, recommendations, or shuttle reservations.
Visit the ruins at Altun Ha to learn about Mayan civilization and to see the inspiration for the images found on both Belizean currency and local favorite Belikin beer. If time permits, consider combining a trip to Altun Ha with a river cruise to explore the caves and see the jungle.
We loved the seaside dining at Smokeez and Midpoint. Smokeez is a bar and grill with a menu that has both traditional Belizean and American cuisine. Midpoint is fine dining Belizean-style, offering seafood, traditional dishes plus American favorites, and a full bar serving a selection of regional wines.
The Islands:
Exploring the surrounding islands is a must. Water taxis are affordable and operate daily. Book online in advance then pick up tickets at the terminal to save time. The islands can also be reached by air, but it costs more and involves a trip back to the airport to spend valuable vacation time going through security again.
Ambergris Caye (pronounced “key”) and San Pedro: Belize’s largest island and the most popular spot for travelers. It’s known for its beaches and water activities — sailing, parasailing, reefs, diving, and snorkeling — plus hotels, shops, and restaurants. San Pedro Town is the water taxi stop for Ambergris Caye and the gateway to everything the island has to offer.
Caye Caulker is its smaller, quieter, more laid back, and less-crowded sister island. It’s divided by a narrow channel called the Split, and has bars, beachside barbecue, restaurants, and sandy beaches. Golf carts are the main form of transportation for locals, sharing sanded unpaved roads with pedestrians. Caye Caulker is also home to several boutique hotels, some built around banyan trees with a hammock available for every room. Be sure to stop at Ix-Chel Spa for open air seaside massages on their covered rooftop.
Traveler tips:
- A minimum 4–5-day stay is ideal and allows plenty of time to explore the islands and mainland.
- Confirm if listed prices are in USD or BZN. It’s usually stated on the menu or at checkout.
- Tip in cash whenever possible. Not all businesses have the option to add a tip after the card has been run.
- Try Belizean stew. It’s a delicious traditional dish of seasoned rice, beans, and chicken. It’s less spicy than jerk chicken and listed on nearly every restaurant’s menu.
- Bring bug spray and sunscreen. Plenty of it.
- The departures area at their international airport is small and not equipped for the volume of travelers that pass through. Flight announcements are not easily heard, so stay close to the gate.
Originally published 4/24/2024